We spent Christmas in Prague this year and we’ve had a fabulous time. There was such a lovely festive atmosphere throughout the city, with Christmas markets, trees and decorations in every square, that it would have been enough just to wander aimlessly through the same squares every day. If you fancy doing a little more, or you aren’t in Prague at Christmas, here are a few ideas for things to do if you are visiting the Czech capital with young children.
1. Eat Pancakes. Lots of them. In fact why don’t you see if your children can survive for the length of their stay solely on munching Palacinky. It’s not as hard as you might think, particularly if there are market stalls around. We have developed quite a fondness for the Czech crepe. Other local delicacies to try include: giant wafers, trdelnik, pork knee- and pork in general- with sauerkraut and dumplings- sweet and savoury, bread and potato.
2. Ride a tram. What’s not to love about the tram? Trams are a bit of a rarity in the UK, and some of these beauties spent time behind the Iron Curtain, so you really do feel like you are riding in a film set. And what’s more, taking the tram means you get a fun tour of the city for very little money. Between April and November there is a special Nostalgic Tram Number 91 that connects most of the major tourist attractions.
3. Go to the park. There are parks dotted throughout the city, all of which are very well kept in our experience. We found our favourite tucked down under Charles Bridge, so whilst the girls played happily on the equipment, DH and I got to check out the view of all the tourists plodding across the iconic river crossing. If you don’t know where to find your nearest park, Living Prague has a great list.
4. Have lunch by the river. As you are there anyway, find a nice place to eat and watch the world go by. There are plenty of boats going up and down ferrying tourists to keep the children busy when they aren’t eating, not to mention the wildlife: we saw so many swans, ducks and gulls that at one point I wondered if I’d woken up in a Hitchcock film. We ate at the excellent Kampa Park, which has a Winter Garden restaurant on the water. Highchairs were provided and they had a children’s menu. Delicious bread cooked on site, great flavours and a good wine list all contributed to what we thought was a wonderful lunch.
5. Catch a puppet show. The Czech Republic is famed for it’s marionettes, so much so that there is a National Puppet Theatre. But if you don’t think that Don Giovanni performed by Pinocchio will cut it with the children, go to one of the Black Light theatres which mix puppetry, performance art and UV light to create truly astonishing shows.
6. Pretend to be a princess, or knight. Prague has a beautiful castle set on a hill which affords excellent views of the city below. What’s more you are able to wander around the beautiful courtyards without paying the entry fee. St Vitus Cathedral, which lies in the pedestrianised heart of the castle complex, has stunning and intricate stained glass windows There is an hourly Changing of the Guard ceremony which children love, and plenty of nearby cafes to recharge your batteries.
7. Join the throng to watch the clock chime. The Astronomical Clock on the Old Town Hall Tower has been there since the 15th Century and is a busy attraction in the centre of Old Town. Every hour, on the hour, the clock becomes animated: there is a procession of the 12 Apostles, which you see through tiny trap doors, as well as animated characters around the clock. The crowd starts building about fifteen minutes before the brief show, so it’s worth getting there early. This is also where you queue to climb the clock tower, which has wonderful views across the heart of the Old Town.
8. Go to a gallery. We thoroughly enjoyed the Salvador Dali exhibition, housed together with the Alfons Mucha museum in the Baroque Kaunický Palace on Old Town Square. The Girls really enjoyed looking at his work and were very taken with the-elephant-with-very-long-legs and the man-with-the-horns sculptures. The National Gallery of this cultured city is divided across five sites so you can be sure that there is art to suit every taste.
9. Write on the John Lennon wall. The ever-changing face of this unassuming wall in a quiet square opposite the French embassy is a big draw for Europe’s youth. What began as a place for the disaffected youth to protest against the Communist leadership in the 1980’s has become an enduring symbol of peace and love that has very little to do with the man for whom the wall is named. Lennon- a committed pacifist- has done much to inspire a generation through his music and so the wall is a reflection of that with graffiti depicting him, his lyrics and the names of the many, many people who make a pilgrimage to write on the wall and make a piece of history.
10. Ride in a horse and carriage. I make no secret that I loved this experience too: I waved happily to all the passers-by who were taking photographs of us and pretended that I was Kate Middleton. We waited in line in Old Town, and lucked out with a carriage that was pink, which made The Girls practically burst. The ride lasted about 20 minutes in an open-topped carriage, which was well-padded with sheepskins and blankets. It is a really lovely way to see a little of the city. If you don’t fancy the ‘Princess’ experience, try a tour of the city in a vintage car. You get to see plenty of the city, have your photograph taken by complete strangers and all for under £60. This was, without doubt, the highlight of our trip.
It’s worth mentioning that Prague has a lot of cobbled streets, so if you need a pushchair, bring one with wheels that can handle the bumps without driving you slowly demented making clickety-clack noises.
Not especially child friendly but I saw one of the best blues bands I have ever seen in an underground cellar bar in Prague. I love that city!